This Peckham classic brought something new to London dining when it opened in 2012. Not only did The Begging Bowl turn Peckham into a restaurant destination, but owner Jane Alty had serious chef chops. Alty had worked with David Thompson, of Michelin-starred Nahm in Bangkok, on his book Thai Street Food, which is the starting point here — though fusing British ingredients with Thai technique is just as important for current head chef Daniel Yeo. Expect the likes of charcoal grilled celeriac with galae peanut curry and pickled ginger, one of several excellent veggie dishes, while something like garee braised beef with sweet potato curry and radish ajat (a Thai relish) demonstrates an expert balancing of flavour. The dining room, with its potted plants, wooden furniture and conservatory-style windows, feels as eclectic as the cooking. And this being Peckham, there’s a short kids’ menu, too, plus 16 French wines to calm parents’ nerves.
